The focus of our latest local “guide” food review is Café du Monde in City Park. Recently, New Orleanians were treated to a bit of melodrama between the two most venerable coffee and beignet institutions in the city. Morning Call and Café du Monde (CDM) fought over the lease at the Casino Building in City Park. Litigation. Melodrama. Morning Call lost. CDM got the lease.
Café du Monde in City Park
The exterior of the 1913 Casino Building with its Spanish tile roof, Moorish arches and wide, shady verandas is just as beautiful as ever. Jay Roman and the CDM people have given the interior a new vibe.
Soft white walls, light blue-green painted woodwork and “sky high” blue ceilings several shades lighter than our beloved haint blue. One wall features black and white photos from the long, long history of CDM. The signature green and white awning motif carries throughout.
Be advised – gone is the large center island with marble countertop, stools, and the lovely lighted wooden arch with MORNING CALL COFFEE STAND in big brass letters. Gone are the numerous Morning Call food options. Beignets are the only food offering. Subject to change, this CDM will not have table service. That’s unfortunate. Gone are the Morning Call servers with their paper boat hats and white jackets. Certainly, the servers are a significant part of the CDM experience in The French Market location.
The Important Stuff
Now about the Café au Lait and beignets. The coffee was quite good, deep and flavorful. The beignets were – beignets. Now I don’t know but I’ve been told that master beignet makers pick up the raw beignets with one each between their fingers to keep them separated. That way when they are tossed into the hot oil they immediately puff up evenly, no dimple. Each of my beignets had a dimple. ☕️☕️☕️
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I just ate there a few days ago, and I have to agree that the beignets are very good, no pockets of air in the middle, they are rich and fried just right. However, I also miss the servers. The fact that it’s pick-up only makes the atmosphere much more restless than it needs to be. But who knows, in the future Cafe du Monde may add servers. It would definitely benefit the vibe of the place.
We agree about the servers, Regine!